Saison Deroeux

"Etienne Deroeux is an emerging French designer. Trained in Belgium at Antwerp’s Royal Academy and La Cambre in Brussels, he has collaborated with various fahion houses in Paris, London, and New York. Enhanced by these experiences, Etienne Deroeux presented his first collection ‘Saison Un’ in 2011 during Paris fashion week. His line evokes elegance, quality and remains timeless. All materials used are natural and handpicked carefully. The pieces are produced in France in limited copies, with each garment hand-numbered from 1 to 100, ensuring authenticity and exclusivity to each piece." (etiennederoeux.com)

I came across the French designer a few weeks a go in an article written by the brilliant Léa Taleb and was instantly draw to his quietly luxurious creations. His designs offer a poetically precise Bauhaus signature, which Deroeux has effortlessly mastered in only a few seasons. The design talent launched his label with the eponymous but simple name 'Saison Une'. From the begining of this journey right through to 'Saison Quatre', Deroeux has been accompanied by his faithful allies; asymmetrically draped dresses, graphic jackets in luminous blends of colour, fabrics and leather selected from manufacturers and tanneries which the 24 year old designer has iconically transformed into works of virtuous simplicity with a subtle blend of tradition and modernity. These masterpieces are all carefully crafted in a small factory in the north of France which also produces his collections in small quantities, believing that "fashion is about long lasting garments that can be integrated into the everyday lives of women." I feel that it is very rare to find designers as attached committed to local craftmanship as Deroeux, and this savoir-faire quality embodied by so little young designers needs to be preserved as much as possible.

Geometry

Tessellating and simple pieces that come together to make exiting and unexpecting results-this is what you will discover when purchasing from Bao Bao-Issey Miyake. The idea of form and function produced by chance is what the Japanese-born designer has enveloped into his exciting and interminable accessories line, first bought about in September 2010, Miyake created a wearable look full of charge and energy. The label 'Bao Bao' comes from the word 'bilbao' which is the comprise of repeated triangular pieces, and it is these tessellations that give the bag its unique and flexible shape, inspired by the metal panels that steel workers fuse together to create structures, the triangles are attached to mesh cloth to give it movement and the feeling of lightness.

Denim nostalgia

London based design team Marques' Almeida are known to evoke the post-grunge Ninties era in their garments and for their FW13 collection they did not shy away from their iconic aesthetic. However, the designers took a rough-luxe take on the era, combing the industrial and baggy skater with raw silks and slashed denim. Semi-court shoes with their signature clompy soles added a splash of sophistication to the skater child, along with silk parkas and luxurious ink and maroon biker jackets-the pinical of Ninties fashion. Pushing the boundaries, Marques' Almeida even tackled the gown but of course to their own ethic; with huge balloning trousers to bring us back to the collection's raw nature, whilst transparent knits were slashed, torn and trailed. Marques' Almeida certainly bought about a sophisticated nostalgia to street.

Acne FW13

It was said that you cut the suspense with a knife at the opening of Acne's first debut at Paris Fashion Week after leaving London last year. It was the final step in the exclusification that is Acne, whereby Jonny Johnasson decided to adapt Acne's men's show into an "intimate presentation" which ultimatley down-sized the exposure of the house and it was certain that Acne would not dare disappoint with their iconic skill in their approach. The outcome of Johnasson's cocktail of cerulean blue, splashes of slate and boxy leather was down to the progressive-minimalist kabel collaborating with bespoke artist Katerina Jebb and the Musee Galliera which created a masterpiece that completely reshaped fashion as we know it. "We wanted to insert a historic element with what we do," said Johnasson and this historical element allowed the label a new outlook and perspective, viewing fashion in a new angle; and with Jebb's materialised prints featured throughout, it made for a captivating and interesting collection. It was a concoction of leather and corduroy, thick knits with brutal zips and stitching, and through the harsh and stiff shapes peered soft salmon pinks and sandy shades invited as much appreciation as the consideration that had gone into the label. With Acne unravelling history, as Johnasson intended, with such ease and innovation, it is safe to say that Acne has found itself a home here in Paris.

Short hair and Vogue

Sweater: Jil Sander
Shorts: Vintage
Plastic raincoat: Topshop

When a woman cuts her hair...

"…it’s time for a change. Change is a funny thing; it can transform not only one’s physical appearance to perhaps something more empowering and elaborate, but can completely renovate that person’s embodiment of their persona into a new, exciting and wonderful being. Extravagant changes are part of human nature, we will simply never be satisfied with being ‘ordinary’ or ‘plain’ but strive to embody every eccentric on this planet until our locks run fuchsia and every inch of our skeleton is inked. It’s an unconventional arms-race which will be won by those who do stick out like a sore thumb, those who are not afraid of neon plaid or floor length cobalt braids á la Brooke Candy..."

This is a short extract from one of my 500 word entries for the Vogue Young Writers Talent Contest which I am planning to enter this year. The thought of exremely important people reading my somewhat mediocre writing really scares me, but this is such a fanstastic and thrilling opportunity as an aspirational editor, I just hope the Gods are on my side! (I think what I wrote above pretty much sums up why I got my hair cut!)

Eudon Choi FW13

Eudon Choi-a young designer who has been steadily building his reputation on cocoon lines, sleek shapes and a sense of futurist austerity, yet for his FW13 collection be bought an aesthetic of Russian romance to the ever-anticipating audiences in his London show this February. "For me the real focus was to keep the signature, but the main starting point was actually the Swarovski sponsorship which really inspired the romantic element in the collection like the crystals," said Choi, who also noted Russian costume as the basis of new shapes and elements fullfilling his collection; bloom-filled headwer and full cocooned skirts adorned his blushing collection. "It has the hardness and the softness," went on Choi, who elaborated that this was a season of firsts and change, a new chapter in fashion and a new chapter in the book Eudon Choi has opened.

 

The main reason why I love London Fashion Week as aposed to the more prestigious of the events is simply because of the discovery and unveiling of new young talent-they emmerge as bright, exciting and unexpected flowers in the fashion Garden of Eden, blooming with innovation and austerity, ready an awaiting their debut which is exactly what has drawn me to Eudon Choi. He mastered it in rosewater and Persian blue.

Origami

 

Grey: Cos

Bone: Jil Sander FW12

 

Quintessentially folded perfection. I have been wearing the same camel wool car-coat for 3 years now and it saddens me to say it is high-time to reinvest, baring in mind we get sight of the sun here in Britain once every leap-year. Ever since I was small I have always found a silent pleasure in creating a mish-mash of paper cranes, butterflies, dinosaurs(!) you name it; this year I have been revolving around that paper-cut minimalism watched by millions on the runway of Jil Sander's FW12 finale. It may seem very faux pas to many of the trend following warriors roaming the nation that I would still be fawning over Raf Simon's final collection IN SPRING 2013; but to me it was a moment in fashion history that will remain quitely bespoke and legendary in it's own right.

Of course we can not forget the elusive Martin Margiela in crafting his Parisian plastic wonderland for spring 2013; architectual square-cut shapes adorned the runway reminding us of the house's identity in quietly serene pallets, allowing us to appreciate shape and form in 13 minutes of over-pronounced cocoons. But that is, to me, what is so iconic and memorable about Margiela-proportions are always being played with, giving you that elusivity when wearing a Mariela gown. And as we all know, the invisible are the most stylish.







Sport

T-shirt: Raf Simons

Shoes: Acne

Skirt: Monki

Holographic card holder: Proenza Schouler

I'm trying to think possitivly about the weather and hoping it will warm up a little so I can actually go running again (this is painful to say, I hope winter will never end but I desperately need the exercise). I've got a good feeling about sports wear this spring and for me, paired with this Raf Simons tee and Monki tennis skirt, these Acne perforated cut-out boots are a fine piece of sportswear craftmanship. 

What I would have wore to LFW

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mohair sweater: Uniqlo men's (old)

Velvet cycle shors: American Apparel

Nylon shoulder bag: Cos

Wood and metal bangle: Cos

Sunglasses: ASOS

It is because I am knee deep in essays *sigh* that I will not be attending the fashion Garden of Eden that is London Fashion Week this spring. However, the thought of many weeks of drowning in lined paper and John Steinbeck did not make me hesitate in deciding on what I would wear to Sommerset House. For that occasion, I stole my dad's old mohair Uniqlo sweater which I have been secretly coveting for years now; although persuading him to let me wear it was nothing without stubbornness. Mohair has got to be my favourite texture for the colder months and there is something I find delicious about the soft and cosy silhouette it gives; although it may seem to many that an extremely oversized knit is such a lazy garment I can never help but feel quite expensive in this one. It reminds me quite a lot of the mohair Wham dress from Acne which is hiding from me at the moment.

Alexander Wang AW13

There is something utterly indulgent about symphonies of Cashmeres, Mohair and fur all thrown together harmoniously creating a beautifully decadent softness in a season of biting winds. Soft shoulders and roomy shapes indulged the crowds at New York Fashion Week, who witnessed the master of modern brew up another masterpiece collection. It was the antidote of rigid and sculptural shapes in which Women's fashion is currently breathing. Model's heads were covered in coal coloured Mohair hoods, knitted into the forecoming news of New York blizzards, a subject every budding New Yorker is familiar with, although Wang bought about an exciting element of unexpectedness-a foreshadowing of what Wang will bring to Balenciaga.
(Photos courtessy of i-doline.com)

VCR clutch

Lipstcik in Myth: MAC

Green tea lip balm: Hurraw

Coin purse: Monki

HTC Wildfire S

You may remember Dutch blogger Ivania Carpio's DIY post where by she fashionned a two sectioned clutch bag out of old clouded video cases. I felt inspired to delve into my own vintage video collection, grabbing an extremely outdated film (It was only Mulan 2 which we all know isn't as brilliant as the first) and using it as a minimally retro clutch as a homage to Ivania. Check out more brilliant DIY posts at Ivania's blog Love Aesthetics here!

Purchase

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cotton cut out tshirt: Cos

This was a little present for myself I bought a week ago, I am always weary with ordering online with

Cos as it seems that I always find myself waiting in long aticipation before the grey package arrives. Of course, purchases from the Swedish brand are forever worth the wait and packaged with the at most care; which I think is an important factor to consider when ordering from overseas as, when you see an image of your purchase online, you expect it to be in that perfect condition when delivered, right? The way Cos package their online stock demonstrates the high quality of care and nurture in

their garments, which for myself, makes me put extra care into wearing it. 

Shoe aspirtation

Left: Acne

Middle: Saint Laurent

Right: Miista

Nothing too complex to be said, just quite simply the shoes I aspire to own in the near distant future. This year I'm going to refrain from spending every cheque from work in an instant and instead save, save, save in hope of being able to afford a pair of these beauties for spring

Post-50s comfort

PVC leather skirt: Topshop

Pastel fisherman's knit: Topshop

Ring: Kurt Geiger (old)

My friend who knows me all too well bought me this skirt for Christmas last year and it has deffinatley made me feel nostalgic for the post-50s poodle skirts worn in Grease, and being made in such a controversial material as PVC, it creates a softer, more slouched silhouette for a month filled with comfort-food and chilliness.

Acne yellow

I really can't resist a pop of neon and when I came across this acid yellow cable knit from Acne my heart sank due to the desolate state of my purse. There comes a time in every girl's life when she realises she can't have what she wants and it really sucks-the joys of being a struggling student! That aside, I can't keep my eyes away from the structure of the knit, it covets a thick ribbed hem and kneckline; the size of the hem is actually one of the main things that drew me to it-it somehow balances the knit despite the heavy cabel design above and the sheer fact that the hem is so HUGE. That's one of the reasons I really love Acne-they can take something as simple as a cable knit jumper and only have to adjust it ever so slightly in such a effective way it becomes a masterpiece in its own. Hats off to you Johnny

Brushed

Brushed metal ring: Cos

I can't tell you how much I loath glitzy bejewelled rings and in fact, my family refuse to buy me jewellery because I am so particular. I like to think of it as defying the rules of being a 16 year old girl growing up in a society filled with boy-bands and Hollister. Brushed silver just looks more delicate than the regular, polished silver you would find in most jewellery and just being cut differently to the mainstream rings (like this asymmetric one from Cos) adds an extra clean and elegant aesthetic.

The Narcissist back to basics

 

White ruffle cotton shirt: Cos

Velvet cycle shorts: American Apparel

 

Cotton has been such a widely universal fabric; used for jeans, terrycloth, polyester, but there is nothing more beautifully simple as a clean, crisp cotton shirt and there is something delicious about going back to basics. I will admit, I had doubts about the shape of the garment when I (do I dare say) bought this in the sale last September. What was going through my mind was whether or not it would make me look too much like a marrionette doll, however it was the clean, crisp cut of the shirt that make me hit 'add to cart'.

Quietly Crazy

Wool sweater: Cos mens (old)

PVC rain coat: Topshop

Nylon bag: Cos

Suede creepers: Office

So welcome to The Narcissist! I hope that I can entice you into my quietly crazy life, where you can share my love for style, Star Trek and Scott-Fitzgerald
xxxHolly