I feel like every season we are sucked into a whirl pool of toile and new trends that we can often forget the little quirks that have become integral to the designer and their work; Chanel's little black jacket, Rei Kawakubo's destructive fabric pile-ons, Rick Owens' dark and otherworldly enigma . I've found myself drawing away from the trend tsunamis (but not ignoring them) and looking out for those little habits in their collections today, that would have been prominent during design infancy.
First up is Christopher Kane. I think probably my favourite aspect of Christopher Kane's collections every season is his graphic tees; his signature is creating luxury out of thrifty screen-printed t-shirts and this brilliance has turned roaring gorillas in his spring/summer 2009 show (think of a more wearable Planet of the Apes) and even Frankenstein in his spring/summer 2013 collection giving a gentle nod to his effortlessly cool and stellar epitome.
On to Rick Owens. His shows always remind me of a forbidden planet and his collections the planet's dark and dangerous enigma; he is in the habit of emerging his models from pouring smoke which helps convey the elegantly badass attitude of his collections.
And of course I couldn't leave out the invisible king of couture. Martin Margiela is guilty of the
habit blessing of being able to create bewitching masks of marble, crystal and pearl. These masks are worn by all in his couture shows-Margiela HIMSELF could be under that mask, who knows? Margiela has made his mark with this signature anonymity, and in his two years of couture he has managed to stamp his signature all over the globe, no effort required.
